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Toilet Repair Services Near Tampa, Florida

When things go wrong with your home toilet, it could be among the most typical– and troubling– plumbing problems you may experience in your home. Whether it is overflowing or running continuously, a toilet repair is an issue you can not put aside.

It would be best if you always try and keep them in good working order as they are among the most significant fixtures in a plumbing system. We do not offer them much attention till something goes wrong and they quit working.

The feared clogged-up toilet is among property owners’ most typical residential challenges. Many will attempt to fix the issue, only to find that the fix did not work or that the problem reappeared.

When the issue requires more than just a plunger service, it’s best to call a local plumber near me for all toilet repair or installation needs. With years of experience servicing Hillsborough County, Florida locations, our local plumbing expert team can take care of toilet repair fast and efficiently, and at a reasonable cost.

Call us today and schedule a non-commitment appointment.

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Most Common Issues with Toilets in Homes

Plenty of toilet repairs, installations, and services are best left for the pros to handle. However, not all services need emergency plumbing services.

Let us to go through a few of the standard problems encountered by clients that have contacted us for suggestions on how to fix them:

Moaning noises:

If you hear moaning noises from a toilet, it could be due to a rise in water pressure, which makes a valve shudder or shake.

Random or constant flushing:

Either of these two problems will potentially trigger the unit to flush and start filling on its own:

the refill tube is too long, or
a leaking flapper

This flushing at random leads to water damage and waste, leading to a higher monthly water service bill.

Compound flushing:

Perhaps you only flush once; however, the toilet flushes two times or even 3 times. A high water level is usually the source of this issue. Changing the float control within the tank will usually fix this issue.

Water dripping into the bowl, or “Phantom Flushes”:

A sluggish leakage from the tank into the bowl is the source of the problem here. A malfunctioning flapper or flapper seat is unquestionably to blame.

Replacing a worn or broken flapper is the best solution to avoid plumbing issues. Empty the water tank, clean and check the seat, then change the flapper.

Sluggish flushes:

A low water level or the lift chain that links the flush handle and the flapper valve causes a toilet only to flush partially. Loosen the lift chain to let the flapper settle down correctly inside the bowl.

Base leakages:

The gasket made of wax between the drain pipeline at the base of the unit should be replaced if it leaks when flushed. This process requires an expert plumbing service.

Not flushing totally:

Check if the lift chain has any slack, and make adjustments as needed.
Check for a correct water level in the tank.
After that, ensure that the flapper is fitted correctly and is the best size and style for the unit.

The Bowl Empties Slow:

Blocked holes under the bowl’s surface area are the most typical cause of a slow-emptying bowl, also referred to as a bad flush. To clean any clutter, gently jab each flush opening with a bent piece of wire.

If you are still unable to resolve these issues, it will be best to contact a local plumber near me.

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Toilet Repair Services

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Pro Plumbing Service Tips for Fixing Typical Toilet Problem Yourself

A toilet consists of two major parts: the bowl unit, which rests on the floor, and the top tank which holds the water. The bowl is a solid drain piece of the fixture made of porcelain with no moving parts.

Few repairs involve the bowl, with a few exceptions. On the other hand, the tank is where two essential valves exist and the handle for flushing. The tank is where most of the toilet repairs happen.

You will be surprised to learn that most issues are reasonably easy to fix without the need to call an emergency plumber.

Running Toilet Repair Service:

If you’ve tried a new flapper for a running toilet and it still runs, do not give up hope. Here’s a solution that ensures it works.

Few home nuisances are somewhat as irritating as the noise of continuously running water. If you hear filling up frequently, or if you hear the constant hiss of running water, the flapper in the unit might be leaking.

The flapper (also known as the “flush valve seal”) is the plug that falls against the drainpipe opening (flush valve drainpipe seat) on the bottom of the tank. It holds water till the next time you flush. When flappers or flush valve seats wear, water leaks out, making the valve to open and refill the tank.

Step 1: Changing Flapper:

First, remove the old flapper and bring it with you to the hardware shop or home center to find a similar one.

Note: Occasionally, a new flapper does not fix the problem. If you have tried changing the flapper, but it still runs, the flush valve seat is probably rough or pitted.

You can replace the complete flush flapper valve; nonetheless, it is not an easy job, and it might need the experience of a plumber near Tampa, Florida.

Step 2: Flapper Set with Flush Seat Repairing:

If changing the flapper alone failed to work, look for a flapper set with a flush seat repair.

Note: You want to buy a Flush valve repair set. The set has a flapper and matching seat that you stick to the broken seat with the adhesive provided.

First, shut the water to the toilet.
Hold the flapper open while flushing to allow the remaining water to drain from the tank.
Make use of a sponge to wipe out the water that stays entirely.
Follow the included directions to set up the brand-new flapper valve seat.
- Pro tip: If the unit uses 3.5 gallons or less of water per flush, you will need a set that includes a plastic cup to change the flapper’s time to stay open. If your unit utilizes more than this, eliminate the timing cup.
  Install the brand-new flapper.
With the flapper down, adjust the chain length, so it’s somewhat relaxed.
Turn on the water to check the flush.

Note: You may have to fiddle with the chain length-size to get the flapper functioning correctly.

When finished, remove the excess chain to keep it from getting stuck under the flapper.

Toilet Repair Services: Broken Handle

If wiggling the handle does not stop your toilet from running, any of these easy fixes probably will.

The handle is a primary device– just a few things can malfunction and need to be repaired. The solution is easier than you think.

Step 1: Loose Handle:

If the handle is loose, the installation of a new one is fairly easy. Tighten up the nut and washer inside the tank with a set of pliers without over-tighten it; you might strip the threads or, even worse, damage the porcelain tank.

If the handle sticks in the down flush position, it may not be installed correctly. Loosen the nut washer, reposition the handle to align with the top of the tank, and re-tighten the nut.

Step 2: Stripped Threads:

If the nut does not tighten up or keeps coming loose, it’s a sign that the nut threads are stripped. For a quick fix, wrap the threads on the handle screw with “plumber’s tape” or electrical tape.

Then, slip the washer and nut back on and tighten up the nut. It is often best to replace the handle with a brand-new one if the threads are too damaged or broken.

Step 3: Handle Arm:

Look into the handle arm for problems, splits, or breaks.
If there are problems, replace the entire handle and the arm assembly.
- Pro tip: Remember where your handle mounts on the tank before purchasing a replacement handle. There are numerous kinds: front position left, front position right, front position universal, and side position.

Step 4: The Chain:

Suppose the handle appears to be running correctly, yet the toilet still does not flush. In that case, the chain attaching the handle arm to the flapper could be detached or damaged.

- Pro Tip: Before working on the chain, empty the tank, shut off the water valve, and pull up the flapper, letting the water to drain.

If the chain detaches from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook.
Leave a little slack in the chain.
If the chain detaches from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
If the chain or the flapper is defective, replace it.

Shopping Tips for Toilets

Tired of your old, leaking, water hog of a toilet and want to buy a new one? A toilet replacement is not a major job and today you’ll find water-efficient units with an array of options. Use the following tips for the next time you go shopping for a new unit.

Insulated tank:

If summer times are damp where you live, and you do not have air conditioning, you’ve probably spotted “sweating moisture” quite a bit on the side of the unit. Condensation forming on the exterior of a toilet can drip down, making a water mess and even rotting your floor.

Today, most toilets are made available with insulated tanks to avoid condensation problems. Look into this alternative if you have “sweating” issues.

Bowl height:

Bowl height is the distance from the floor to the top of the bowl’s edge– the typical height is 14 to 15 inches. Yet today, you’ll find units 16 to 18 inches high, often called “comfort level” “ADA height” or something similar.

The additional heights offered make getting on and off much more accessible and comfortable for many people, especially aging individuals. Designs for kids with heights of 10 to 14 inches are also available.

One-piece vs. two-piece:

A two-piece (a separate tank and bowl) is the most typical style in homes. Yet one-piece designs are offered. Two-piece designs are generally less expensive; one-piece designs typically have shorter tank and are much easier to clean up.

One-piece designs are the favorite of many homeowners because of their smooth, sleek appeal.

Cost:

When it pertains to toilets, expensive does not immediately suggest better efficiency. Several of the best models we have tested were reasonably cost-effective and performed well. In comparison, costlier ones were only marginally efficient.

Color:

Style is fickle. Stick with a white or off-white color style to avoid being stuck to a color you’ll resent a few years later on.

Flush-handle location:

If you have a large bathroom and have ample room above or beside your toilet, this perhaps isn’t all that essential. Be sure to choose a style with a top handle or one opposite the wall if the room is limited.

Purchasing a proper style is very important, to save yourself a return trip to the store, so pay attention when choosing style options.

Rough-in:

The “rough-in” measurement is the distance between the flange screws that anchors the toilet bowl to the floor and the wall surface behind it. A twelve-inch “rough-in” is the most typical measurement; however, in some older houses, you might have a ten-inch or even a 14-inch “rough-in.”

Tip: Ensure to measure your “rough-in” and always account for the thickness of your baseboard, paneling, or tile backing before purchasing the unit.

Bowl design:

A lot of unit designs marketed today have either round-front bowls or elongated-front bowls.

Round-front bowls are good if the area is tight.
Elongated bowls have a more extended edge– as much as 2-inch longer– and need more room.

On the plus side, elongated bowls are usually much more comfortable for adult use which helps increase health and wellness. Review your supplier’s websites for bowl measurements, and measure your space before selecting the bowl design.

Footprint:

If you mount a new toilet with a smaller sized tank, you might have to repaint the part of the wall surface covered by the old tank.

The same will apply if the old unit style had a big footprint on the floor, you might have to patch and repair the floor part surrounded by the footprint of the old unit. You may additionally have to replace the entire floor before installing a new unit.