Faucet Set Up: Plumbing Expert Tips
The guidelines that can be found in the box with a new faucet need to tell you every little thing you need to understand for a regular set up. Problem is, there’s no such thing as a regular set up because every task has its difficulties.
To obtain the answers to one of the most common problems, we sat down with a professional nearby plumber in [county], [region] that faces these faucet instances every day. Utilize these professional tips to make your faucet replacement an easy half-day task as opposed to an all-day challenge.
Locate the Origin of the Issue
If your faucet has weak pressure or flow, a new faucet probably isn’t the answer. Here’s the way you can track down the source of the problem:
- If both the hot and the cold are weak, the aerator is probably blocked. Simply remove it and clean it to solve the issue.
- If either the hot or the cold (but not both) is weak, then damaged supply lines, shutoffs, or supply pipelines are the issue. Supply hoses or shutoff valves are easy enough to change.
Taking care of damaged or old plumbing is a larger task, however it can benefit other fixtures in the residence that have low water pressure.
Measure Before You Shop
Before you choose a new faucet, examine the setup and spacing on your sink. If you have a three-hole setup, measure from the center of each handle to find out your spacing.
Standard spacing is typically 4 or 8 in. If you want a single-hole faucet but your sink consists of 3 holes, not a problem. Many faucets provide a cover plate to hide the other 2 holes.
Get Everything You Assume You May Need
When you go to pick up your new faucet, bring a checklist of every potential set up item you may need. One trip to return a couple of items is much easier than several runs to the home improvement store for the stuff you assumed you wouldn’t need.
Get a Basin Wrench
A basin wrench accesses impossible-to-reach nuts underneath the faucet. It will certainly get to those hard nuts and deal with almost any other fitting you could encounter throughout a faucet install.
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Install the Faucet First
If you’re installing a new sink, place the faucet to the sink before dropping the sink into place. Having all things in plain sight typically creates much better connections– and the less time you spend on your back under that sink, the much better.
Evaluate the Shutoffs
Almost every faucet is connected to shutoff valves underneath the sink. But those old valves frequently don’t function, and it’s best to understand that before you start. If your shutoffs don’t prevent the water flow, you can repair them or change them.
Or you can shut off the water to the whole home at the main shutoff valve while you change the faucet.
Wipe Your Sink Deck
To ensure a good seal between the sink and the new faucet, make certain to remove the footprint of the old faucet. Scouring powder works well for soap scum and waste.
For harder lime or corrosion deposits, a pumice stone is the most ideal remedy.
Utilize Plumber’s Putty
Some manufacturers recommend utilizing silicone caulk to secure a faucet or drainpipe, but beware: It can be hard to use and can tarnish natural stone. We like plumber’s putty. It’s simpler to deal with, and the non-staining variety won’t leave blemishes.
It’s at the same time much simpler to repair a faucet installation that was set up with putty. Silicone is as much a glue as it is a sealant and can make taking things apart hard.
Replace Your P-Trap
Make space under the sink by removing the P-trap. Reusing an old P-trap can be an unpleasant ordeal for your new sink install. The cost of a plastic P-trap package is less than $5, and you’ll get peace of mind knowing all those fittings are new and tidy.
Keep in mind that many bath sink drains are 1-1/4 in., and cooking area sink drains 1-1/2 in.
Replace Your Supply Lines
Never ever reuse old supply lines. The last thing you need is water damages from a failed supply line. Even if the hoses are new looking, it is advised to change them because the rubber washers can stop working over time.
Quality supply lines with a braided stainless steel covering may cost a bit extra (regarding $8 each), however they’re well worth it.
Get Leakproof Links
Each connection calls for a different amount of torque to tighten. Over-tightening the slip nuts on a plastic waste line can strip the threads and produce a leaky connection. Always hand-tighten these connections.
For flexible supply lines, the common recommendation is to get them to finger tight, then provide a quarter turn with a wrench.
Don’t Skimp on the Teflon Tape
A 40-ft. roll of Teflon tape sells for a couple of dollars, so don’t be stingy with it. Make certain you cover all your threaded connections clockwise several times (3 ).
When you thread on that nut, it should feel snug, and the clockwise wrap will certainly maintain the tape from unraveling as you tighten the connection. Teflon tape is simply much more cheap insurance against any type of leaks, so don’t be cheap.
Remove the Aerator and Flush Out Sediment
Plumbing work knocks debris loose inside pipelines. Make certain that water-sediment does not obstruct your aerator or valves. Remove the aerator and then allow both the hot and the cold run for a min to flush the lines before reinstalling the aerator.
The Final Step: Check for Leaks
When everything is connected and your water is back on, do a thorough leakage check. Wipe it all down with a dry rag, and then blot your connections with toilet paper to see if there is any type of evidence of a slow leakage.