Faucet Installation: Plumber Pro Tips
The instructions that are available in package with a brand-new faucet must inform you every little thing you require to understand for a normal installation. Problem is, there’s no such thing as a normal installation because every project has its complications.
To get the solutions to the most usual problems, we sat with a pro local plumbing professional in [county], [region] that faces these faucet instances daily. Use these expert suggestions to make your faucet replacement a very easy half-day project rather than an all-day challenge.
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Discover the Source of the Problem
If your faucet has weak pressure or flow, a brand-new faucet most likely isn’t the remedy. Here’s just how you can locate the origin of the issue:
- If both the hot and the cold are weak, the aerator is most likely blocked. Just remove it and wash it to solve the issue.
- If either the hot or the cold (but not both) is weak, then defective supply lines, shutoffs, or supply pipes are the issue. Supply hoses or shutoff valves are easy enough to change.
Dealing with defective or old plumbing is a larger project, but it can benefit some other fixtures in the house that have low water pressure.
Measure Before You Buy
Before you select a brand-new faucet, check the setup and spacing on your sink. If you have a three-hole setup, measure from the center of each handle to determine your spacing.
Standard spacing is usually 4 or 8 in. If you want a single-hole faucet but your sink consists of 3 openings, no problem. Lots of faucets include a cover plate to hide the other two openings.
Get Everything You Assume You May Need
When you go to grab your new faucet, bring a checklist of every possible install item you might require. One trip to return a couple of items is much much easier than several runs to the home improvement store for the stuff you assumed you wouldn’t need.
Get a Basin Wrench
A basin wrench accesses impossible-to-reach nuts underneath the faucet. It will certainly reach those hard nuts and take care of nearly any other fitting you may encounter during a faucet set up.
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Mount the Faucet First
If you’re installing a brand-new sink, mount the faucet to the sink before dropping the sink into place. Having all things in plain view always creates far better connections– and the less time you spend on your back under that sink, the far better.
Evaluate the Shutoffs
Practically every faucet is linked to shutoff valves under the sink. But those old valves frequently do not function, and it’s best to understand that before you begin. If your shutoffs do not stop the water flow, you can repair them or change them.
Or you can turn off the water to the whole property at the major shutoff valve while you change the faucet.
Clean Off Your Sink Deck
To ensure a great seal in between the sink and the new faucet, be sure to remove the footprint of the old faucet. Scouring powder performs well for soap residue and crud.
For tougher lime or rust deposits, a pumice stone is the most ideal remedy.
Utilize Plumber’s Putty
Some manufacturers suggest utilizing silicone caulk to secure a faucet or drain, but beware: It can be hard to use and can discolor natural stone. We like plumber’s putty. It’s simpler to work with, and the non-staining variety will not leave blemishes.
It’s also much simpler to repair a faucet assembly that was mounted with putty. Silicone is as much a glue as it is a sealant and can make taking things apart hard.
Replace Your P-Trap
Make space under the sink by taking out the P-trap. Reusing an old P-trap can be a messy ordeal for your new sink set up. The price of a plastic P-trap kit is less than $5, and you’ll have peace of mind knowing all those fittings are new and tidy.
Keep in mind that most bathroom sink drains are 1-1/4 in., and kitchen sink drains 1-1/2 in.
Replace Your Supply Lines
Never ever reuse old supply lines. The last thing you need is water damages from a failed supply line. Even if the tubings are newer looking, it is recommended to change them because the rubber washers can stop working over time.
Quality supply lines with a braided stainless-steel case may set you back a little bit much more (regarding $8 each), but they’re well worth it.
Get Leakproof Connections
Each link calls for a separate amount of torque to tighten up. Over-tightening the slip nuts on a plastic waste line can strip the threads and create a leaking connection. Always hand-tighten these connections.
For flexible supply lines, the common suggestion is to get them to finger tight, then give them a quarter turn with a wrench.
Don’t Skimp on the Teflon Tape
A 40-ft. roll of Teflon tape costs a couple of bucks, so do not be stingy with it. Make sure you cover all your threaded connections clockwise a couple of times (3 ).
When you thread on that nut, it must feel firm, and the clockwise wrap will certainly keep the tape from unraveling as you tighten up the connection. Teflon tape is simply more cheap insurance versus any leakages, so do not skimp.
Remove the Aerator and Clear Out Debris
Plumbing work knocks debris loose inside pipes. Be sure that water-sediment doesn’t clog your aerator or valves. Remove the aerator and then allow both the hot and the cold run for a minute to clear the lines before re-installing the aerator.
The Last Step: Check for Leaks
Once everything is linked and your water is back on, do a thorough leakage check. Clean it all down with a dry cloth, and then blot your connections with bathroom tissue to see if there is any evidence of a slow-moving leakage.
Learn to detect sneaky water leaks inside your home and prevent water damage and waste.
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